Performing a seasonal trailer tune–up
Why Regular Maintenance Matters
Trailers may be the most neglected item of boat related equipment, in spite of the fact that they open up vast horizons of boating adventure, allowing us to explore locations far remote from our normal local waterways.

We tow our own boats all over the Western United States, and (long ago in our impetuous and ignorant youth) must admit we, or our friends, have experienced most of the common trailering disasters. Improperly secured gear has taken flight from our boats. Wheels, with inadequate lug nut tension, have launched themselves from hubs, rolling past us at 55 MPH. We have abandoned a boat and trailer far from home on a Sunday evening with seized wheel bearings, because we neglected to carry a spare set. We have even seen a trailer, negligently unsecured by safety chains, detach itself from the tow vehicle on the freeway, and miraculously survive without damage to our vessel or neighboring motorists.

Since most boaters have not been blessed with the blind good luck of our ignorant youth, we will list a few spare parts, safety procedures and quick systems checks that will help assure trouble-free and worry-free trailering. The beginning of the boating season is the best time to give your trailer a once-over. It is easy to do, and a few hours spent now will prevent future lost days on the water and disasters on the freeway.

What You Should Check
Frame: The trailer frame holds everything else together, so a thorough inspection is a good place to begin. Check every inch of the frame for buckling, cracks, or corrosion damage. Pay special attention to any welds, and the attachment points for fenders, bunks and rollers and the winch. If you find rusted areas, grind them down to bare metal with a brass wire brush and paint them with a corrosion-inhibiting primer. We have had good results with Pettit's silver 6980 Rustlok Steel Primer, even on a very old trailer.

U–Bolts and Coupler: Check the U-bolts and nuts, which hold the axle or axles in place. Squirt a little WD40, Lear Corrosion Block or CRC Corrosion Inhibitor onto the threads, back the nuts off, and lubricate the threads. When in doubt, replace the U-bolt assembly (having an axle work loose on the freeway is very bad). Take a look at the trailer coupler, make sure the locking lever is in good condition, and lubricate with light oil. If the coupler is badly rusted, consider replacing it, which is cheap insurance against a disconnected trailer. Take care of any rust on the coupler with the wire brush and metal primer, and be sure that the coupler safety pin is present.

Winch: Next, inspect the winch. Now is a good time to consider a replacement, either manual or electric, if your current winch is undersized or in bad shape. Unroll the cable or strap, and check for chafe, broken wire strands, or corroded swage fittings. When in doubt get a new one. Remember that your winch is designed to launch and retrieve your boat, not to hold the boat on the trailer while cruising the Interstates. Trailer winches are not tie-downs, and you need a separate tie-down line attached from the bow eye to the trailer tongue or winch stand.